Africa: "Would you like to stroke my cheetah?"

This would be a great pick up line - and the young men whose parents started a cheetah park on their multi-thou hectare farm in Namibia could use it as most of the 31 overland companies that operate in Africa target young people. Our trip, however, provides no potential - African Touch specialises in tours for ‘mature travellers’.

And, unlike leopards or lions, cheetahs can be tamed. At Otjitotongwe Cheetah Park we meet three - they purr like cats, lick like dogs, and, when they’re excited, chirp like birds.Then, in 250ha that’s fenced for wild cheetahs, farmers throw chunks of meat and, after thrilling scuffles, the victors rush off to relish dinner - and we retire to a bar which features among its decorations a New Zealand flag and a kudu head.

Wine is not commonly served in rural Namibia, and mine arrives in a tumbler filled to the brim. After having a few beers, the farmer, who must seem like danger material, gets a gin in an enamel cup. The guys, having morphed from cheetah guides to barmen, are done with drunk overlanders breaking glasses

Next stop: Etosha National Park which covers almost 23,000 sq km. In fact, 15 percent of Namibia is national park. Young zebra chase springbok for fun. An elephant swipes at a bird with its trunk. Giraffes step gracefully away and inspect us in Sangoma the big green truck.

Each night, Rex and I walk to the illuminated waterhole by the camp and, in magical half light, observe elephant and rhino, hyenas loudly lapping, guinea fowl - and more. Electric blue starlings hang about camp, as does a honey badger and a ground squirrel.

The days are warm with clear skies after chilly mornings. Each day we board the truck - a converted Scania that’s surprisingly comfy - and set off on a game drive. We pass a hundred-plus zebra heading to a waterhole where they take slurps and leave. Springboks slip away as well.

Ahhh, lions are approaching. I guess other animals will soon arrive, unaware Simba and friends are in situ, or those that do will get so thirsty they’ll take a risk. After watching nine lions stake out the waterhole the ‘stay in your car’ warning really makes sense – they are almost impossible to see in the long grass.

Later we return to find more lions staking a claim – two females and six teenage cubs. How can a lioness stalk anything when the kids hoon round, pounce on each other and play rough and tumble?

At another waterhole, two thirsty giraffes hesitate. Is a lion nearby? Oh, the stress! Giraffes have valves in their necks which pump blood to their head. Drop their head for too long and they get dizzy. Sleeping is so risky they nap for less than two hours a day, resting their heads on their hind quarters. If a giraffe is drinking and a lion grabs its head, the world spins and they fall over. The lion scores - so easily.

Thankfully, today is a lucky one for the giraffes.